Ancho, habanero, jalapeno, anaheim, guajillo, chipotle, pequin, pasilla, chile de arbol, morita, pulla, it is a fiesta of chilli peppers and these form the cornerstone of flavours at Mehico, Kolkata’s brand-new, real deal of a Mexican restaurant. This pantry of chillis also reflects its core idea to create a sampler of the regional diversity and the vastness of the country’s cuisine. Tequila, corn, and chillis might be synecdoches of Mexican cuisine but a deep dive into the history, use, and evolution of each is to understand a people and their vast food culture.
Housed in a 126-year-old building, its white facade complete with colonnades and arches, Mehico is a feisty pop of brick red, visible from a distance. The entrance of the restaurant is a walk past large windows framed by olive frames, potted cacti plants and a small glass-walled tortilleria where you can see fresh tortillas being made.
Dipping a tortilla chip into a piquant habanero and a smoky tomatillo dip, one wonders why we had to wait so long and survive so many servings of the standard kachumbar-like salsa till we discovered the real deal. At Mehico, there is a total of 14 salsas with different flavours of native Mexican chillis, fruits, herbs, tomatillos, and more, each one a burst of chilli, smoke, acid and aromas. They tieevery dish together from a simple chip to tacos, tamales, and the delectable Fish A la Contramar with its dual marinade of adobada and parsley lemon. The serving of chips which is complimentary at every table is followed by a tart and aromatic Aguachile Verde Con Camaron, a bright green plate where fresh prawns are cured in a tangy 'chile water' made out of serrano chillies and served with fresh radish, avocado and cucumber.
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